i'm now halfway to Lhasa (a permit-free safe zone) but each time i pass one of the ubiquitous police checkpoints in Tibet, i unload a fresh batch of last night's kung pao chicken into my already filthy shortpants. today was the closest call yet. the police guy peered into our (picked up a couple chinese tourists) rented van and stared each one of us down, skunk-eye style. luckily my disheveled appearance passed the test and to add some 'english', i hocked a purple-green loogie over the 5.0's shoulder for extra emphasis of my Sino-ocity.

i wonder if the ulcer i'm developing is worth the monetary savings. certainly the landscape is arguably the best i've seen in all my travels - photos to come (of course) - and the tibetan people, despite their never-ending runny noses, some of the friendliest and smiliest folks on earth.

3 more days to go with my hardest challenge, Bayi, a large military outpost upcoming shortly. i'll make sure to wear my extra absorbant adult undergarments for that one.